Our First Step in Southeast Asia: Hanoi, Vietnam
After making ourway through a string of developed Asian megacities in Japan, Korea, and Hong Kong, we started the second (and main) phase of the trip: a thorough romp all around Southeast Asia. Like many young backpackers, the region has a huge appeal for me: stunning scenery, invigorating (and chaotic) cities, an Eastern way of life, infamous cuisine, a profound sense of adventure, and of course, everything is incredibly cheap. Since I don’t have any commitments or obligations back home, it makes things incredibly exciting and open ended. We’ve been able to plan our trip one step at a time, adding (and subtracting) planned stops as westart to feel out the area.
Rather than start out in the main internatonal hub of Southeast Asia, Bangkok, we decided to hop on a short flight to the closest major city from Hong Kong. Hanoi was the winning candidate, and we made our way there on May 22nd. While I had been wanting a change of pace from the hectic city life we had been almost exclusively engrossed in over the previous 5 weeks, Hanoi grew on us over the course of our 10 days there.
Hanoi is a city of 7 million people and 5 million motorbikes, and the bikes dominated the city streets, including where we stayed in Hanoi’s Old Quarter. Other distinct sights were the endless shops selling (what I think are) counterfeit North Face jackets and Fjallraven backpacks, numerous pho (vietnamese noodle soup) establishments that would set up on the sidewalks, the signature kiddie chairs that restraunt diners sat on, and plenty of cafes to try some delectable Cà phê sữa đá (condensed milk coffee). The coffee is most often prepared cold in response to the awfully humid climate that makes up Vietnam’s summer, but I was partial to drinking mine hot.
Speaking of food, my favorite meal in Vietnam has been Banh Mi, which is a Vietnamese sandwhich with flavorful pork, pate, veggies, and a spicy sauce, all for about 20,000 to 30,000 dong ($0.85-$1.30), which makes for a delicious and cheap way to fill up while on the go. However, the rest of Vietnamese cuisine was nothing to write home about. Food is generally bland (if salty), and left us often not feeling satiated, though a couple meals that we had later on in the trip did change our mind, if only a little bit.
I had two highlights during my time in Hanoi: Train Street and Hoan Kiem Lake. Because of its colonial French history, Vietnam has a train line running from Saigon to Hanoi (with several spurs), something not many developing countries can attest to. But the section in Hanoi’s Old Quarter is narrow — maybe 15 feet across, with buildings and restaurants cozied up on either side. (Un)suprisingly, it has become of the cities top tourist attractions, with tourists flocking when the train blazes by during the early morning and evening hours.
I found the whole experience invigorating. We sat down and grabbed beers at one of the restaurants, and talked with the waitress and another couple for 15 or 20 minutes. A striking bell sounded to indicate the train was coming, accompanied by a shouting man in the distance. Quickly, the workers and patrons scurried around, folding tables and pressing against the wall, cell phones aimed south. We soon saw the headlights, and then this gigantic train bustled through, leaving us maybe two feet between the wall and the train cars. A minute later, its gone, and the whole street cheered. Strange, quirky, and a fun evening.
My second highlight, Hoan Kiem Lake, is considered the center of Hanoi, even if it’s not quite the geographic center. I found it to be a wonderful area, with wide, spacious sidewalks enclosed by a buzzing army of motorbikes (and some cars). People were enjoying the view of the lake, vendors were selling souvenoirs and foods, ladies were doing yoga, men were playing a version of hackysack, and it was a peaceful oasis in the chaotic city. I always made it a point to walk along the lake to and from my hostel because of how enjoyable it was.
But while all of the previously mentioned characteristics are wonderful, they are not why I find Hoan Kiem Lake to be such a treasure. One Friday night I went outside to find the street outside had been closed to vehicles and turned into an open air market. I asked somebody who told me it was a festival, one that took place every weekend. To my surprise and wonder, there was no miscommunication. The streets surrounding Hoan Kiem Lake were abuzz, not with the usual motorbikes, but with street performers, dance groups, food trucks, families, and even a impromptu roller skating rink. Pedestrians abounded in every direction, on all sides of the lake. They even set up a stage on the north end, though it seemed I missed the performance.
I really enjoyed Hanoi, and my first step into both Vietnam and Southeast Asia. Thankfully, the craziness of big cities would go on to end, as we headed to Halong Bay, and then on south to Ninh Binh. Until next time!
