(Finally) Escaping the City: Halong Bay, Vietnam
We spent the first 6 weeks of our Journey in humongous Asian Megacities, from the gargantuan Tokyo to the imperceptible Hong Kong. It’s easy to travel between these cities, thanks to robust and cheap airfare, especially due to low cost carrier, but there was a ever-growing allure to finally break from the urban jungle.
Man, were we happy to get on our 3 day adventure to Halong Bay, Vietnam. We didn’t know much about it before, but everyone in Hanoi talked about it, and our tour book recommended it as well. Halong Bay (and it’s identical neighbor, Lan Ha Bay, separated by a province border) is off the coast of northern Vietnam about 3 hours from Hanoi by car. Halong Bay is known for what are called karsts: massive limestone rock formations shooting out of the bay, the tops covered by lush tropical vegetation.
As most people did, we did an overnight trip on a boat arranged by a tour company, and it was a really lovely time. The karsts were numerous and far-stretching; we got to swim in the bay between them as well. We explored deserted beaches (though with a fair amount of trash). We saw monkeys who lived amongst the rock formations. We got to go kayaking beneath the nature made caves that are underneath the karsts.
After the wonderful time spent on the bay, we were dropped off at our accommodation for the night, a remote bungalow tucked along a crescent shaped karst. It felt a little resort-y for us, they tried very hard to have us purchase their expensive drinks (which we did), and it was pretty, yet stale. The view was hard to beat, and since it was arranged by the company, it was a welcome surprise as we expected something much more quaint.
Our third day however, was a little different. Unlike the other westerners doing the tour, we opted for an extra day of “trekking”. We didn’t really know what to expect, but it was just us and our wonderful tour guide, and we made it to a sign that said it was 2 km to the viewpoint. Then our tour guide pointed at one of the karsts with a radio tower way on the top, and told us that was where we were going. It was (mostly) straight up. It had just poured two days before, and we were woefully unprepared for what was to come.
I don’t have pictures, but it was one of the most difficult activities I had ever done in recent memory: a constant trek of scrambling up rocks after carefully stepping on the mud trail to avoid slipping at every turn. The slope was often 60 degrees up, and at one point we had to walk across a narrow path of uneven rocks with a sharp plummeting descent below. Plus, running along the trek were massive electric wires that said “DO NOT TOUCH / Dangerous Electricity Caused Deadly”, but were often the only things we could hold to steady ourselves from the mud.
But after (many) breaks, we made it. The view was pretty, but I just laid down on a concrete structure for the 45 minutes until we went back down, unable to register the natural beauty before me. We were completely spent by the end. the 4 km took over 4 hours, and there were times when neither of us thought we could make it down okay.
I’m proud that I did it, but it was quite unexpected and worrying. Our tour guide did not mention to Lena that she shouldn’t wear sandals, and neither of us were asked to wear pants to avoid the plague of mosquitoes. He didn’t even have a first aid kit. Though he was a wonderful guide in every other way, with unending patience and optimism. I think it’s just a different mentality. The US feels so sterilized by insurance and financial liabilities that would prevent us from ever doing something like we did without waivers, advance warning, and other precautions (if the trail would be legal at all). It makes things safe, but also can make it quite boring, as the red tape prevents the unexpected. On the other hand, these outdoor activities in Southeast Asia have much less red tape: do whatever you want, but its up to you to prepare and face any consequences. I chalk it up to a point of gaining resiliency paired with a point of risk.
Halong Bay was quite the treat, trekking included, and I’m really happy I went. It was a great first escape from the city and the first of many, including our next stop in Ninh Binh, about 5 hours southwest of Halong Bay.
